After the travails of flying from Manchester, New Hampshire, to Paris, to Amman, Jordan, followed by two consecutive cancelled flights from Amman to Baghdad, it was a joy to finally do what we came here to do.
It wasn’t until the next day that we found out what a terrible day in Baghdad it had been. We knew something was going on because of the massive increase in helicopter traffic overhead, but even having been there only for a second day, loud explosions followed by small arms fire were so constant a part of the auditory landscape, that as new to Baghdad as we were, we were already almost jaded.
Dozens of Blackhawk helicopters roared low altitude over our heads, and for the first time we saw a pair of Apache helicopters. Apaches are a breed apart from Blackhawks. They are sleek and fast, and their approach is heralded by a lower, throatier report than a Blackhawk. Men leaned out the doors and the guns waved menacingly across the city as we set up the PA system.
The method of death’s dispatch that killed the 65 people at Baghdad University was typical according to a soldier I spoke with today. The insurgents detonate a car bomb, and then wait for a crowd to gather in its aftermath. Then they send in another car bomb or a suicide bomber.
There were audible explosions all across the city yesterday, but one was followed by a sustained cacophonous symphony of multiple sirens. It was the sound of maimed and murdered innocents being brought to morgues and hospitals across Baghdad, systems so stressed by the incessant fighting and killing that they are sometimes barely able to deliver services.
I had previously heard the dull thud of car bombs followed by the bright, clattering report of small arms fire, but never before with so many ensuing sirens. You hear the explosions in the morning typically. First, the call to prayer emanates from the mosque minarets, and then the attacks begin. They ebb and flow throughout the day, and then accelerate in the early evening as the cover of night emboldens the murderers.
We played up-tempo Rhythm and Blues music, dressed in tuxedos and playing outside in chilly weather as the helicopters flew. The show was a benefit for the Starfish Network, an organization that funds and facilitates surgeries and other therapies for sick and injured Iraqi children in Iraq. Ticket sales totaled $20,000, and in addition there were corporate contributions of more than $50,000.
Life-saving monies were gathered and life-ending horrors were perpetrated. Most days in Iraq, sum zero is as good as it ever seems to get
Posted by Chris Elliott at January 19, 2007 10:53 AM
Comments
Despite your magnificent description of the horror, it is horror nonetheless. Keep yourself safe and hopefully come back soon.
Posted by: SusanB at January 19, 2007 11:06 AM
Ah Iraq! Democracy flourishing! Chris, do me a favor, ask around; would US pressure on Israel to stop it's grotesque abuses of Arabs in occupied Palestine help the average Arab's attitude toward the USA? We are just Israeli shills over there, it is very sad how neocons and evangelicals have done the Israel lobby's bidding, and put us in this stupid stupid war.
Posted by: none at January 20, 2007 01:17 PM
Wow. God bless you guys for going. I have a friend who recently got sent there with the National Guard.
He has a good job here as a boss. He has a wife and kids and is absolutely the nicest person you've ever met. I can't imagine getting taken from civilian life and tossed into that mayhem for an unknown length of time. Not to mention the constant worry of his family at home. Will they ever be together again?
Posted by: Dave D at January 20, 2007 08:13 PM
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